Blanks on the map
2011 has been a special year for me. The year was special because it had given me opportunities to focus on a few blanks on the map around great mountains such as Nanda Devi and Kangchenjunga. It had given me opportunities to concentrate on solving exploratory problems that existed in the mountains near me. My first objective was to force a route through the Rukel- Rongyoung gorge systems of North Sikkim (March 2011). J Claude White, the first British political officer to Sikkim had pioneered this route back in 1890. After White, the same route was repeated by Harold Raeburn (1920) and Bill Tilman(1936).
In March 2011, we wanted to do their route in reverse and thus rediscovering (and taking first ever photographs) the Rukel- Rongyoung river and valley systems. It was a great success and a stepping stone for our successive expeditions later that year (November and December) to the elusive Zemu Gap (a long standing problem on the great east spur of Kangchenjunga). The March expedition would pave way to our further success on ascending Zemu Gap from Tongshyong glacier (December 2011) and thus making its first documented climb ever to be done from its southern flanks.
Expedition Mayel Lyang: through the trackless vale of tears: March 2011
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Our expedition went through catchments, rivers, mountains and villages that are deeply associated with Lepcha heritage and their cultural tradition. The area (Dzongu), the river (Ronggyaong) and the mountain (Kangchenjunga); all of them suggested the land and its people were intertwined harmoniously with each other and were inseparable. The mountains, rivers, cliffs all have Lepcha names. Almost all of them have a story to tell for themselves. This land, surrounded by the snows of Paki Chu, Pandim, Kanchenjunga, Simvu, and Siniolchu is “Mayel Lyang”- the sanctum sanctorum of Lepcha Heritage.
‘Mayel Lyang’ is a Lepcha term that literally means “mythical paradise” or “hidden paradise”. It is also referred to as ‘Ancient Sikkim’ by the Lepcha. They believe their immortal ancestors still live in the snows of Kangchenjunga, hidden. We appropriately decided to call this journey as the “Expedition Mayel Lyang”.
The “SikkimExpedition Mayel Lyang 2011” succeeded in exploring and completing a journey across the unknown and undocumented areas of Rukel and Ronggyaong river catchments. It took us eleven days in total on the Talung side and just two days to cross the Guicha La divide and reach the road head of Yoksum. It is possible to make a trail in the Rongyoung-Rukel side. This endeavour would not only open up new adventure avenues and mountaineering destinations, but also probably will put an end to unwarranted poaching.
The full account of this journey can be found in Himalayan Journal Vol 67 and a brief report in the American Alpine Journal through the following link:
The Deotoli Col: to the Realm of the Blessed Goddess- September 2012
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Our objective was to explore the Northern spurs of Bethartoli Himal (North Summit 6352m, South Summit 6318m) with an eye to find an alternative passage on the barrier wall of Nanda Devi Sanctuary . Bethartoli Himal is located due north of Trisul I. We were looking for a couple of low and accessible points on Bethartoli’s two Northerly spurs. Bethartoli North has a satellite peak on its North Ridge. From this satellite peak two spurs originate and descend towards Rishi Ganga due North.
We were able to locate two feasible cols of the northerly spurs of Bethartoli Himal and climb them. We were the first party to locate and climb them. These two cols did not require any climbing skills. Any seasoned himalayan trekker will be able to visit them. Obeying the law of the land we did not set foot on the valley floor or enter the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. We stood on its barrier rim and retraced our trail back. From an explorer’s point of view we hope our explored cols will join the list of previously known passes and cols of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary.
For detailed report click here:
For news in the American alpine Journal click here:
Zemu Gap from South: the first documented ascent
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The history of exploration around Kangchenjunga, especially around its south, south east and east flanks; has always fascinated me. The classic journeys and adventures of pioneers like W.W. Graham, John Claude White, Douglas Freshfield, Dr. A.M. Kellas, Harold Raeburn, N.A.Tombazi, Lord John Hunt and Paul Bauer ignited my imagination. The height of inspiration of course came from reading my hero Mr. H.W. Tilman’s account in the Himalayan Journal (vol. IX) on his attempt on Zemu Gap from south in 1936.
The primary challenge of climbing Zemu Gap from south has always been its remote & complicated approach. Many failed just to reach the foot of this col. To add to that its apparently impregnable defenses took Zemu Gap to a next level of exploratory climbing. In 1925, Greek photographer N.A.Tombazi is said to have made its first ascent from south; but he did not take any photographs! To me and my long time expedition partner Thendup Sherpa; all the above factors seemed highly intriguing and certainly worth investigating.
To start the exploration process, we repeated Claude White’s route of July 1890, in reverse, forcing up the Rongyoung-Rukel Chu gorges to connect Mangan, north Sikkim with Yoksum, West Sikkim in March 2011 ( Mayel Lyang Expedition: mentioned above). This success had reinforced our confidence and we were ready to have an attempt on Zemu Gap from south, a long standing problem in mountaineering history around Kangchenjunga. In November, 2011, we crossed Guicha La, went down Talung glacier to set up a high camp on Tongshyong. But a 5 day long snow storm stopped us from approaching Zemu Gap. We went down the Rukel-Rongyong gorges to Mangan. Finally in December 2011, we were successful in climbing Zemu Gap from Tongshyong glacier, i.e. south.
For a detailed report on the first ascent of Zemu Gap from south you can visit this link:
One successful exploration after another is certain to set things in motion; especially for a wandering nomad like me. 2011 was over and newer inspirations were at work. This time it is beckoning me from a distant land. My heart tells me it will still be an exploratory journey by nature. This exploration however will not involve discovering a new pass or making a first ascent; but more towards the spirit of discovering myself, facing my fears and learning to overcome them. Africa calling.
But before taking that leap I must also mention the curious case of lost trekkers of Kalindi Khal, an expediton to Mount Satopanth with my friend Martin Muecke and a trip to the Mont Blanc massif with Rajeev Ranjan and Bhavin Gandhi, all of which were also part of 2011. But for all that my readers have to wait till Part V of my Prologue to Africa.
But before taking that leap I must also mention the curious case of lost trekkers of Kalindi Khal, an expediton to Mount Satopanth with my friend Martin Muecke and a trip to the Mont Blanc massif with Rajeev Ranjan and Bhavin Gandhi, all of which were also part of 2011. But for all that my readers have to wait till Part V of my Prologue to Africa.
End of Part IV
14thMay 2012
