My pilgrimage to the Bernese Alps- a short report

July 18, 2009, 10:26 am

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The Berner Oberland Trio: Eiger- Monch-Jungfrau

As the rock step became unstable and never ending; we were still struggling to get to the South East ridge of Jungfrau. Last night when we last looked at the map, it all looked so obvious. For a team of experienced rock climbers and high altitude mountaineers, this 4000er seemed more like a tourist mountain. It took us a while to realize yet again that a mountain is a mountain; no matter how many times it has been climbed in the past; or how many guide books has been written on its routes. We were surprised at the grade of difficulties we were facing that morning. The guide books described the SE ridge of Jungfrau as PD and we were almost certain that it was going well beyond that scale. Well, the guide book was not wrong; it was us on the wrong side of the ridge. I felt tired and sleepy as I climbed and tried to be careful and safe on the rocks. The snow ridge was within striking distance, but we knew it will not bring any comfort to our ascent. We have already lost 2 vital hours on this perilous traverse and with the rising sun; snow was getting softer each minute. A scary scramble followed by a snow plod. Does not make a perfect alpine ascent; does it? But sometimes thats all you get. Never under estimate a mountain; I told myself. I learn to be humble every step, onwards and upwards.

The Jetlagged climber

I have never felt so much jet lagged ever before as this time. I dont know why it happened; but the flight to Munich from Delhi via Dubai ( and 19 hours in transit- 9 in Dubai, 10 in Delhi) seemed to have taken its toll. Inspite of the special treatment from the Airlines at the Delhi airport; my body was reacting strange this time. It felt like that I needed to acclimatize to the alpine air.

I started from Kolkata on the morning of July 9; reached Delhi at around 2.30 in the afternoon. I had to wait in the International terminal for 10 hours for my flight to Dubai and then another 9 hours in the transit area in Dubai. When I finally made Munich it was July 10, 13.30 hrs. Martin came to meet me at the airport and we took the S-Bahn to the Munich HBF ( main station) , had a coffee and parted. Martin was heading to Berlin to meet his parents and me to Meiringen. My train to Meiringen via zurich was not untill 4.30 pm and I was glad to see Alan and Sandra waiting for me there. It took 5 hours from Munich and thanks to the smooth driving by Sandra I reached the MCI campsite at Innertkirchen close to midnight.

Didnt get any sleep for the past 48 hours and it was the same that night.

6 days...4 summits...not bad eh

July 11: Climbed Schwarzhorn after a long walk from Grosse Schiedig. There was a via ferrata on one of its ridge. This was my first ever via ferrata and I must say I enjoyed it thoroughly. The wearther was not pleasant and I was feeling tired and sleepy all the time. I never got time to get rid of the jet lag. Although I thought walking and climbing could be a great way to smash the jet lag down.

I was wrong. I got my first ever alpine summit today though.

July 12: The weather forecast for the rest of the wek was not encouraging at all. The Mittelegi hut on Eiger was closed for uncertain time. This was notgood news for the few dreamers (like me) who were really keen to climb the famous and classic ridge of the Eiger this time. But when you are in the Bernese Alps; you are not short of famous( almost iconic) mountains to climb. So the Team Eiger decided to move up to the Monchjoch hut. George, sandra, PJ, Michael, and Anthony climbed Monch that afternoon; and I decided to sleep, a much deserved one perhaps. They climbed Monch that afternoon while I slept.

July 13: Started from the Monchjoch hut at 4 am, traversed the glacier and started gaining the rocky ridge that will finally lead us to the SE ridge of Jungfrau via Rottasattel. Lost 2 vital hours on the loose and treacherous rock step only to realize that we were on the wrong face of the ridge. We manage to climb it without any trouble (other than losing precious time) and continued to Rottasattel. The bergschrund ( a massive crevasse guarding the bottom of Rottasattel) did not pose too much problem and we were soon on the saddel. TJust as soon things started to look a bit easier for us, the weather decided to turn hostile and we had to do the snow and ice climbs to the summit in near zero visibility. The summit shot of Jungfrau (the one with the prayer flags) will show the kind of visibilty we had then. The paryer flags I bought in Manali after coming down from Manirang is now on top of Jungfrau. After a total of 11 hours and patient pitch by pitch climb down of the face, we were back in the safety zone.

George and the rest of team decided to take the evening train down to Grindelwald and I decided to stay another night at the Monchjoch hut. The plan was to climb Monch next morning and the I was keen to do it solo. So after an hour of slow snow plod I was back at the hut. Heidi, the lady in charge of the reservations of the hut was surprised to see me back and got even serious when she she heard my plan to solo Monch next morning. To her I was not only a single Indian climber; but the weather forecast for the next day was not particularly encouraging. But when I said to her that I am a professional mountaineer and I guide in the Indian Himalaya; she was a bit assured I guess.

It felt like home in the hut that night, and Heidi remembered my lactose intolerance problem and got a nice specially cooked meal for dinner. Finally could sleep well that night.

July 14: Started from the Hut at 6.45 am and reached the top of Monch at 8.25 am. Very windy morning and climbing the knife edge ridge near the summit got interesting with each step. I must say the concentration and commitment brought me to another spiritual level altogether. I was very glad whehn I was at the top. Took a lot of photos and caught a glimpse of Eiger and its South ridge. Next time Eiger...I will come back. Have to. Climbed down to the hut without any problem, met Heidi to reassure her of my safe return. She was glad to see me back. After a cup of coffee I headed down to Grindelwald valley. What a day.

July 15: Back at the campsite at Innertkirchen, it felt like coming home. Meeting Alan and Margaret felt like family. I felt blessed and lucky to have such friends and to be able to live such a life. walked down the Aare river gorge to Meiringen and visited the Sherlock Holmes museum. Coffee, good food and some time with friends. Thats what you call life.

July 16: After a rest day I was keen to climb again; at least one more summit. Alan suggested the walk up to the tierberg glacier. That will give me access to peaks like Susten horn and others. I was keen to do something solo. But got a curious opportunity to guide some one in Alps. Could not resist the chance and ego satisfaction invloved I guess. So approached Hans ( a nice guy from Norway- with no glacial or altitude experience) if he would join me to climb. He agreed readily and we were soon at the Tierberg hut. Alan was there again for us driving us close the road head.

It took us 1.30 hours to climb to the hut, took a short break to eat my apple struddle ( bought from the local bakery of Innertkirchen) and give instructions to Hans regarding glacial walk techniques etc. After another 2 hours we were on the summit of Mittl Tierberg. I traversed to loose rocky riodge towards the Hinter Tierberg only to be warned by the unstable character of the rocks. So we had to be happy with just one summit this morning.

And there ends the summit fever....

The meteo or the weather forecast for the alps continues to be bad to worse...and I have now travelled down to zurich (actually I am camped comfortably and Anne and Sepp,s house at Stafa; one hour from zurich, having redwine and good food. Life is good at the moment while its raining hard outside. saw in the tele that it has been snowing down to 1000msl and literally all climbing to 3500-4000m summits is at halt. My days at the alps are coming to an end. Still hoping to make a 5th summit if the weather breaks and gives an window of opportunity. But should not be greedy. After all mountains have not taught me that. It is humility and patience I have learnt. But still.....

My gratitude goes to Alan Tees, President of the Mountaineering Council of Ireland ( now called Mountaineering Ireland ) for inviting me to this alpine meet. It has enriched me with new ideas and strengthened me with the experience gained on the snow of Bernese Oberland. My love and respect for Margaret, who was always there for me, like my mother and pampering me.

Thanks and regards to my friend Martin, Hilde, Sepp and Anne for food and shelter....after all thats all I have ..thats all I treasure...friendship...

--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja: +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

---

My pilgrimage to the Bernese Alps- a short report

July 18, 2009, 10:33 am

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The Berner Oberland Trio: Eiger- Monch-Jungfrau

As the rock step became unstable and never ending; we were still struggling to get to the South East ridge of Jungfrau. Last night when we last looked at the map, it all looked so obvious. For a team of experienced rock climbers and high altitude mountaineers, this 4000er seemed more like a tourist mountain. It took us a while to realize yet again that a mountain is a mountain; no matter how many times it has been climbed in the past; or how many guide books has been written on its routes. We were surprised at the grade of difficulties we were facing that morning. The guide books described the SE ridge of Jungfrau as PD and we were almost certain that it was going well beyond that scale. Well, the guide book was not wrong; it was us on the wrong side of the ridge. I felt tired and sleepy as I climbed and tried to be careful and safe on the rocks. The snow ridge was within striking distance, but we knew it will not bring any comfort to our ascent. We have already lost 2 vital hours on this perilous traverse and with the rising sun; snow was getting softer each minute. A scary scramble followed by a snow plod. Does not make a perfect alpine ascent; does it? But sometimes thats all you get. Never under estimate a mountain; I told myself. I learn to be humble every step, onwards and upwards.

The Jetlagged climber

I have never felt so much jet lagged ever before as this time. I dont know why it happened; but the flight to Munich from Delhi via Dubai ( and 19 hours in transit- 9 in Dubai, 10 in Delhi) seemed to have taken its toll. Inspite of the special treatment from the Airlines at the Delhi airport; my body was reacting strange this time. It felt like that I needed to acclimatize to the alpine air.

I started from Kolkata on the morning of July 9; reached Delhi at around 2.30 in the afternoon. I had to wait in the International terminal for 10 hours for my flight to Dubai and then another 9 hours in the transit area in Dubai. When I finally made Munich it was July 10, 13.30 hrs. Martin came to meet me at the airport and we took the S-Bahn to the Munich HBF ( main station) , had a coffee and parted. Martin was heading to Berlin to meet his parents and me to Meiringen. My train to Meiringen via zurich was not untill 4.30 pm and I was glad to see Alan and Sandra waiting for me there. It took 5 hours from Munich and thanks to the smooth driving by Sandra I reached the MCI campsite at Innertkirchen close to midnight.

Didnt get any sleep for the past 48 hours and it was the same that night.

6 days...4 summits...not bad eh

July 11: Climbed Schwarzhorn after a long walk from Grosse Schiedig. There was a via ferrata on one of its ridge. This was my first ever via ferrata and I must say I enjoyed it thoroughly. The wearther was not pleasant and I was feeling tired and sleepy all the time. I never got time to get rid of the jet lag. Although I thought walking and climbing could be a great way to smash the jet lag down.

I was wrong. I got my first ever alpine summit today though.

July 12: The weather forecast for the rest of the wek was not encouraging at all. The Mittelegi hut on Eiger was closed for uncertain time. This was notgood news for the few dreamers (like me) who were really keen to climb the famous and classic ridge of the Eiger this time. But when you are in the Bernese Alps; you are not short of famous( almost iconic) mountains to climb. So the Team Eiger decided to move up to the Monchjoch hut. George, sandra, PJ, Michael, and Anthony climbed Monch that afternoon; and I decided to sleep, a much deserved one perhaps. They climbed Monch that afternoon while I slept.

July 13: Started from the Monchjoch hut at 4 am, traversed the glacier and started gaining the rocky ridge that will finally lead us to the SE ridge of Jungfrau via Rottasattel. Lost 2 vital hours on the loose and treacherous rock step only to realize that we were on the wrong face of the ridge. We manage to climb it without any trouble (other than losing precious time) and continued to Rottasattel. The bergschrund ( a massive crevasse guarding the bottom of Rottasattel) did not pose too much problem and we were soon on the saddel. TJust as soon things started to look a bit easier for us, the weather decided to turn hostile and we had to do the snow and ice climbs to the summit in near zero visibility. The summit shot of Jungfrau (the one with the prayer flags) will show the kind of visibilty we had then. The paryer flags I bought in Manali after coming down from Manirang is now on top of Jungfrau. After a total of 11 hours and patient pitch by pitch climb down of the face, we were back in the safety zone.

George and the rest of team decided to take the evening train down to Grindelwald and I decided to stay another night at the Monchjoch hut. The plan was to climb Monch next morning and the I was keen to do it solo. So after an hour of slow snow plod I was back at the hut. Heidi, the lady in charge of the reservations of the hut was surprised to see me back and got even serious when she she heard my plan to solo Monch next morning. To her I was not only a single Indian climber; but the weather forecast for the next day was not particularly encouraging. But when I said to her that I am a professional mountaineer and I guide in the Indian Himalaya; she was a bit assured I guess.

It felt like home in the hut that night, and Heidi remembered my lactose intolerance problem and got a nice specially cooked meal for dinner. Finally could sleep well that night.

July 14: Started from the Hut at 6.45 am and reached the top of Monch at 8.25 am. Very windy morning and climbing the knife edge ridge near the summit got interesting with each step. I must say the concentration and commitment brought me to another spiritual level altogether. I was very glad whehn I was at the top. Took a lot of photos and caught a glimpse of Eiger and its South ridge. Next time Eiger...I will come back. Have to. Climbed down to the hut without any problem, met Heidi to reassure her of my safe return. She was glad to see me back. After a cup of coffee I headed down to Grindelwald valley. What a day.

July 15: Back at the campsite at Innertkirchen, it felt like coming home. Meeting Alan and Margaret felt like family. I felt blessed and lucky to have such friends and to be able to live such a life. walked down the Aare river gorge to Meiringen and visited the Sherlock Holmes museum. Coffee, good food and some time with friends. Thats what you call life.

July 16: After a rest day I was keen to climb again; at least one more summit. Alan suggested the walk up to the tierberg glacier. That will give me access to peaks like Susten horn and others. I was keen to do something solo. But got a curious opportunity to guide some one in Alps. Could not resist the chance and ego satisfaction invloved I guess. So approached Hans ( a nice guy from Norway- with no glacial or altitude experience) if he would join me to climb. He agreed readily and we were soon at the Tierberg hut. Alan was there again for us driving us close the road head.

It took us 1.30 hours to climb to the hut, took a short break to eat my apple struddle ( bought from the local bakery of Innertkirchen) and give instructions to Hans regarding glacial walk techniques etc. After another 2 hours we were on the summit of Mittl Tierberg. I traversed to loose rocky riodge towards the Hinter Tierberg only to be warned by the unstable character of the rocks. So we had to be happy with just one summit this morning.

And there ends the summit fever....

The meteo or the weather forecast for the alps continues to be bad to worse...and I have now travelled down to zurich (actually I am camped comfortably and Anne and Sepp,s house at Stafa; one hour from zurich, having redwine and good food. Life is good at the moment while its raining hard outside. saw in the tele that it has been snowing down to 1000msl and literally all climbing to 3500-4000m summits is at halt. My days at the alps are coming to an end. Still hoping to make a 5th summit if the weather breaks and gives an window of opportunity. But should not be greedy. After all mountains have not taught me that. It is humility and patience I have learnt. But still.....

My gratitude goes to Alan Tees, President of the Mountaineering Council of Ireland ( now called Mountaineering Ireland ) for inviting me to this alpine meet. It has enriched me with new ideas and strengthened me with the experience gained on the snow of Bernese Oberland. My love and respect for Margaret, who was always there for me, like my mother and pampering me.

Thanks and regards to my friend Martin, Hilde, Sepp and Anne for food and shelter....after all thats all I have ..thats all I treasure...friendship...

--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja: +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

paperwork blues

August 5, 2009, 4:43 am

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I will tell you how it is going so far! I am talking about this expedition we are planning in North Sikkim. The mountain is called Kellas and it is 6680m. It is named after Dr. A. M. Kellas, one of the highest authorities of high altitude human physiology. Its a British- American Expedition led by Dr. Jeremy Windsor and I am proud to be a part of it. If we make it, it will be a first ascent and a tribute to Dr. Kellas.

I consider myself lucky to be able to work in the Indian Himalaya. No where else one would find as many unclimbed peaks, unexplored glaciers. Surely one life time is not enough! I live my passion and enjoy my job. Just to be able to be in the mountains is rewarding enough. But sadly as everything else in life also is, there is a constant, never ending pain. A kind of reality that we learn to live with; make treaty, or sometimes even a compromise!

It has not changed since the British left. It is the mountain of paper works! Probably one of the most significant part of any Himalayan Expedition. So long the freedom of the hills and spirit of adventure! They can only come if and when you have the right papers signed, right number of files moved, spoken to the right people and of course the right currency paid ( in this case it happens to  be US$ and a whole lot of it).

we just need the following departments' clearance for this expedition:

Indian Mountaineering Foundation
Ministry of Defense
Ministry of Home Affairs, Delhi
Home Department, Government of Sikkim
Tourism Department, Government Of Sikkim

And I am beginning to feel glad that we have got the clearance from the first 4 departments already! Only one to go.

And you thought these mountain guides' are free from the boredom (burden) of desk job? Not in India you don't. :-)

--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja:  +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

Swiss Alps photos

August 7, 2009, 11:10 pm

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Hi Friends,

I have posted some of my pictures from the Swiss Alps in this album.
http://picasaweb.google.co.in/anindya.adventuremania/MyPilgrimageToTheBerneseAlps?feat=directlink

cheers!
Raja

--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja:  +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

volunteers needed in Swiss Alps- check out this great video

August 24, 2009, 8:56 am

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKIqGYRuvbk
I loved this. You will too!
--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja:  +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

me, monsoon & me: some photos

August 27, 2009, 1:44 am

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http://picasaweb.google.com/anindya.adventuremania/MonSoon?authkey=Gv1sRgCJCpoqLHw8bPtAE&feat=directlink

click on the link above to go to the album
--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja:  +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

Ladakh Beckons

August 27, 2009, 6:25 am

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There is this restlessness back on my feet, back on my mind and soul. It happens. Always. Without fail. It has been happening to me since I was a kid. A kid with no concentration on syllabus and classrooms. A kid with distant, dreamy eyes lost in his own journeys in his own head. That restlessness has not left me. Not yet. I remember one night when a camping trip was canceled and I was depressed. I had to go pitch my tent in our backyard. Man, it gave some outlet. I just had to go outdoor! Literally! And so I kept on sleeping in a hammock ( and when it rained, I moved inside a 1960s Japanese ridge tent that belonged to my uncle).

Now that I manage to make a living out of the great Indian Outdoors; that restlessness has only increased. I want to see more, I want to learn more from whatever is out there.

Off to Spiti and Ladakh next week. This time I will be leading a German group over Parangla and finally to the Tso Mo Riri. From Delhi we will be driving to Manali and then to Kaza. Two long days on the road. After a days rest and acclimatization at kaza, we will be heading for the road head.

I am not yet fully organized regarding this trek. The Expedition to Peak Kellas in North Sikkim ( which is coming up right after I finish this trek) have been keeping me busy ( with all its paper works and babudome). Had to lose a fantastic opportuntiy to spend the weekend at Forest Rest House in Dooars as well. But I really have to put things together in the following days. Well, sacrifices made for greater cause and hope all will fall in to their respective places...in due course! Amen!!!
--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja: +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

of mangroves, tigers & a medical boat

August 30, 2009, 8:09 am

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A boat. looks ordinary from outside. Just like the boats that ferry tourists on river cruise in the Sundarban, bringing thousands each year to it's famous Tiger Reserve. Not like the huge ones used by the West Bengal Tourism. But the smaller ones which are more efficient.

I am planning to buy one.

and then, I am going to convert the interior of this boat into a medical unit. Not a very sophisticated one. It will have only the basic gears and facilities of a primary health center.

why?

while working at Cyclone hit (Aila) Bali island and its neighborhood, I was shocked by the sheer access problem to the remote islands and villages. Villagers have no access to primary health care in some villages. In most of the cases, they have to travel a long way to nearest towns; either to a private doctor or to a Government run clinic ( which is either un-manned or ill equipped in most cases).

What if I can start a project that will run this boat; which is in effect a 'mobile medical unit'...

working 365 days...run and manned by locals...all we need is some one trained in nursing and basic first aid.

this is still an idea...

I know this thought needs refining, some fine tuning and lot of planning and preparations..It will not be easy. It will take lot of commitment in the beginning. But it is not impossible.

But I also know...that when this idea has come in my mind..I will do it.

I can not do it all on my own; because most part of the year I am in the mountains. If you think it's a stupid plan that's bound to fail, and I should forget about it; please let me know.

But if you feel otherwise, and feel like joining me or putting a word of advise in ear; you are most welcome.
--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja: +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

---

Elbrus Album

September 1, 2009, 12:59 am

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http://picasaweb.google.com/anindya.adventuremania/ElbrusRace?feat=directlink

Here is the link to the images from Elbrus Race 2008. I have added some new pics to this album from the Speed Climb organizers website. Here you can see the almost photo-finish between me and Martin on top of Elbrus.

--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja:  +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

a train, a bus and manali

September 5, 2009, 2:02 am

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Kolkata to Delhi.The train journey was a nice surprise. Actually. Rajdhani Experess, haven't been on it for long time. And now I must admit that the experience is better. It has improved, the whole experience. Remarkable food especially, when this is included in your train ticket price; matters. But what matters most is panctuality of the train. And this time it was a ten on ten.

 

Whenever I am taking a train ride, all these comparisons come into my mind. The European trains ( especially the Swiss, French and German) are great. They are meticulously perfect on time, they are clean and look modern. The one long distance Russian train I was on was a train from Moscow to MIn Vody. It was great and different experiemce altogether. It lacked the look may be, but there was no shortage of quality of service on board. I was particularly impressed by the one lady conductor who was literraly taking care of everything in one coach. From checking our tickets to cleaning the floor. The look may be was mechanical and the built was a typical Soviet type; but I must admit there was certain warmth about it. This warmth is completely missing in European trains. The Eurpoean trains may be faster, and has more on time performances; it still lacks the human touch. The Swiss Jungfrau railway is admirable for the engineering achievements and service etc, but what it lacks is human touch. Technology and quality of service come first. Human touch later. Money first, convenience later.

 

Indian trains on the other hand are human first and then everything else come into the picture. The on time performances are improving. Surely we do not hear about abnormal delays any more and the cleanliness and hygiene has improved on board ( still no where near comparable to Western Standards though). Its diffrent, indeed!

 

Delhi as always was hectic. Running around and talking business is all I did in day. Not just meeting my clients for the upcoming trek; I had to take advantage of being in Delhi and meeting the IMF and updating the October Expedition scenario.

 

I have always preferred the overnight bus ride from Delhi to Manali, over flying to Kullu and the taking a taxi to manali. Not only it saves cash, but also it saves time. Instead of sleeping one night in Delhi, we are now in Manali. All the Adventure Mania boys are here too. Its a nice temperature and we are not missing the Delhi or Kolkata climate a bit.

 

Tomorrow we are off to kaza. A long day ( 11 hours approx) over Rohtang Pass and Kunzum pass( 4550m) and into spiti. Crossing the Great Himalayan range and into lahoul and the to the middle country of Spiti. After 2 nights in kaza we wil set out for Kibber (the highest village, connected by road 4200m) and then onwards and upwards to Parangla and Tso moriri). Adventures ahead.

 

This is how things are happening and I am not complaining.

 

Hoping to get some interest from climbers for satopanth (7075m) and Shivling (6593m) for 2010. Hope and thats the best policy sometimes. There is internet connection in Kaza. If it works , will probably do one more post before the trek.

--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja:  +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

Kaza

September 7, 2009, 3:45 am

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After getting stranded again on Rohtang Pass road, finally reached Kaza last evening. A gruelling 11 hours on the road and a well earned rest at the Himachal Tourism Hotel Spiti. It was good to see the young cook from Kullu is still there and he almost made us feel at home with a fantastic meal.

 

We seem to be lucky weather wise this time, though the September wind is already biting cold. Its going to be some cold nights up ahead at Parang La I am sure. Arranging transport to Kibber and permits is on top of my agenda today. Shopping for 12 days for 13 people is also happening right now. Off to Kibber tomorrow. The highest village (4250m) connected with a motorable road and electricity.

 

Some of us have gone to visit the nearby Dankhar Gompa, while the not so lucky ones are happily roaming in the streets of Kaza.

 

Since we were lucky enough not to get stranded in Kunzumla due to untimely snow fall ( read in the newspaper at Losar Police post that this snowfall broke 54 years record), I am hoping that we will make it through the next 2 weeks with safety an success. Crossing of Parangla (5580m) is the most demanding part of this 2 week trip, but what interests me more is the exit route chosen. Instead of following the obvious path to Leh after reaching the Tso Moriri , I am inclined to follow the valley of Phirtse Fu and cross Telkon La (5050m) and reach Pang, the road head.

Looking forward to do some exploring up the KIbber valey and towards kanamo (5900m) and Shilla( 6130m) Peak. It can be a good acclimatisation day for the team as well. The small peak on the left of Parangla is also in my mind. Lets see how everything goes. Safety comes first!

Next contact with internet wil be around 24 Sep. Till then good bye and peace!

--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja:  +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

Adventures ahead: Kellas Peak on the horizon

October 6, 2009, 11:20 pm

≫ Next: Indian Himalaya 2010

≪ Previous: Kaza

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3 weeks in Spiti passed swiftly. Snow and wind as constant company, we managed to trek from Kibber to the Lingti valley. The original plan to cross Parang la was abondoned due to too much new powder snow. So had to forget Tso Mo Riri this time; and focussed on the land and culture of Spiti instead.

After the trip, back in Manali, surprises and shock were waiting for me. My blogs were thoroughly spammed. This prompted me to clean my space and change all the settings hoping to ever watrchful evil eyes of the spammer. Reminds me of the black gate and the eye of Sauron (Lord Of the Rings)!

Came back home only discover my laptop sick, and desktop critical. To add to the misery, the internet device dead! So I have to catch up with my work and emails in internet cafes nowadays for a change! Not fair!

The only nice thing was probably being home in Durga Puja festivals after 7 years. It was juyst nice to be around with my son and catching up with friends.

But now the holiday is over and I am all set for expedition to peak Kellas in remotest corner of North Sikkim. Tell you what, all the permits are now done!!! Phew! Its going to be interesting as little is known about the mountain and its approaches. So I am open to challenges from all possible (and impossible) corners and of course I am not undermining the Indian and Sikkim bureaucracy. After all a piece of paper can easily blow away the peace of mind! Yes!

Indian Himalaya 2010

November 18, 2009, 12:09 am

≫ Next: Kuari Pass Trek 2010

≪ Previous: Adventures ahead: Kellas Peak on the horizon

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Its Indian Himalaya we are talking about and in Adventure Mania its usually more action and less talk.

2009 is almost over and we are already planning for 2010. We need climbers for the following peaks for 2010:

Mt Shivling (6593m)- August, 2010
Mt Satopanth (7050m)- August-September, 2010
Mt kalanag (6387m)- May-June 2010

You can also join our Yoga trek In the Singalila Ridge : March-April, 2010

We are Adventure Mania, we love our mountains! We enjoy our work in the mountains with clients from all across the globe! Since 2002, we climbed and trekked across the Indian Himalaya with success and responsibility.

Adventure Mania team consists of climbers and Sherpas who have vast experience in the Indian Himalaya. Although we prefer climbing in less known valleys and glaciers and smaller peaks; we have been to major Indian Himalaya peaks like Shivling, Kamet, Changabang, Nandaghunti, Srikailash, Bhagirathi, Chowkhamba, Srikailash, Kalanag, Manirang, Swargarohini.....just to name a few.

It is true that apart from Kanchenjunga, we do not have any 8000m peaks! What we have is countless less known glaciers and mountain peaks ranging from 5000m to 7000m (and many of them are unclimbed..still!!!); valleys very few tourists have hiked; rivers seldom rafted down; culture so deep rooted and vibrantly colourful people. And these all are but the finest components that can make your trip to Indian Himalaya a truly memorable one!

This won't be entirely out of place to mention that all our trips are very personalized. We are totally invested in all our trips, right from planning it to executing it in the field. We are with you during your trip from the start to the finish, be it a trek or a mountaineering expedition. That is why sometimes it may take us a little while to reply your mail.

Whatever is happening or about to happen with Adventure Mania, we post on this blog:
http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com

If you are interested to join any of our scheduled treks or climbing adventures,please visit our website: www.adventuremania.com. Or just write and email to Raja.

We are also regular treks to remote Sikkim, Garwal and Kumaun, Himachal Pradesh regions.We also offer full service guided ascents on non technical summits.

Adventure Mania Charity:

we could not do something permanent for the porters at Bhujbas, Gangotri. The current National Park laws does not allow us stay up there. So now we have decided to build up an equipment pool with old used mountain clothing to be given to porters and their families. We also conduct free medical camps for porters in their villages. You can get invloved in one of these camps that we do.

Kuari Pass Trek 2010

December 31, 2009, 10:19 pm

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Kuari Pass Trek 2010: October 13, 2010 to October 25, 2010

places open:

for a picture tour of the Kuari trail click on the link below:

http://picasaweb.google.com/anindya.adventuremania/KuariPass?feat=directlink

for more more info email Raja or Contact Adventure Mania

Indian Himalaya 2010!

January 10, 2010, 11:03 pm

≫ Next: 2011 Expeditions and Trips

≪ Previous: Kuari Pass Trek 2010

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Its Indian Himalaya we are talking about and in Adventure Mania its usually more action and less talk. We are looking forward to organize treks and mountaineering expeditions to the following peaks and areas this year. Please feel free to write back if you have a specific query regarding any of our trips mentioned below. We are also providing base camp supports to independent climbing parties all over the Indian Himalaya.

for a brief introduction to the mountains in Garhawal, Kumaon and Sikkim please click the link:

http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com/2010/01/introduction-to-garhwal-kumaun-and.html

Scheduled Mountaineering Expeditions

• Mt. Lama Ongden (5818m)- 20 April- 8 May, 2010- Sikkim- remote areas of Ringi Chu valley of North Sikkim. Places open.

• Mt Shivling (6593m)- 5 June-4 July, 2010- Garhwal- places open: for photo tour from our Expedition to Shivling in 2008 please click on the link: http://arnarogberglind.smugmug.com/2009/shivlingmyndashow/10801390_wbD4g#754497766_b9faH ( courtesy: Arnar Emilsson and Berglind Adalsteinsdottir)

• Exploration climbing: 21 August, 2010- 18 September, 2010* (Himachal Pradesh)-places open

Note: those interested in doing climbs in less known and unexplored glaciers and valleys in Indian Himalaya may contact Raja for more info on this planned expedition.

• Exploration Climbing Spiti-Oct 25, 2010 to November 24, 2010

( positions filled)*

Scheduled Treks:

• SINGALILA RIDGE TREK:

You can join our scheduled Yoga trek In the Singalila Ridge : March-April, 2010. This will be lead by Raja and Yoga lessons will be given by Hilde Wasserfall. Dates: March 27, 2010 to April 11, 2010

For more info on this trek please email:

• SPITI-LADAKH TRAVERSE

MANALI-KAZA- PARANGLA- TSO MORIRI- TELAKONLA-MANALI TREK:

Period: 17July- 6 August 2010

• KUARI PASS TREK: THE NANDA DEVI TRAIL

October 13, 2010 to October 25, 2010

A few places left to book and join this great trek with magnificent views of the Nandadevi and its associate mountains.Trek Grade: Easy

For a picture tour of Kuari trails click on the link below:

http://picasaweb.google.com/anindya.adventuremania/KuariPass?feat=directlink

for details Email Raja:

We are Adventure Mania, we love our mountains! We enjoy our work in the mountains with clients from all across the globe! Since 2002, we climbed and trekked across the Indian Himalaya with success and responsibility.

Adventure Mania team consists of climbers and Sherpas who have vast experience in the Indian Himalaya. Although we prefer climbing in less known valleys and glaciers and smaller peaks; we have been to major Indian Himalaya peaks like Shivling, Kamet, Changabang, Nandaghunti, Srikailash, Bhagirathi, Chowkhamba, Srikailash, Kalanag, Manirang, Swargarohini.....just to name a few.

This won't be entirely out of place to mention that all our trips are very personalized. We are totally invested in all our trips, right from planning it to executing it in the field. We are with you during your trip from the start to the finish, be it a trek or a mountaineering expedition. That is why sometimes it may take us a little while to reply your mail.

Whatever is happening or about to happen with Adventure Mania, we post on this blog:
http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com


Adventure Mania Charity:

we could not do something permanent for the porters at Bhujbas, Gangotri. The current National Park laws does not allow us stay up there. So now we have decided to build up an equipment pool with old used mountain clothing to be given to porters and their families. We also conduct free medical camps for porters in their villages. You can get involved in one of these camps that we do.

regards,

Anindya Mukherjee "Raja"

---

2011 Expeditions and Trips

January 8, 2011, 10:56 pm

≫ Next: Kuber Glacier Exploration and first Indian ascent of Sky Peak, June 2001

≪ Previous: Indian Himalaya 2010!

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Goecha La Trek & climbing Jopuno Peak
Where: West Sikkim, India
When: Monday, March 28, 2011 to
Saturday, April 16, 2011


Roop Kund Trek
Where: Garhwal Himalaya, India
When: Monday, May 23, 2011 to
Sunday, June 12, 2011


Satopanth (7075m) Expedition
Where: Garhwal Himalaya, India
When: Friday, July 1, 2011 to
Saturday, July 30, 2011

Guided ascents in the Swiss Alps
Where: Bernese Alps, Switzerland
When: Saturday, August 27, 2011 to
Saturday, September 10, 2011

Kilimanjaro- a high altitude trek
Where: Tanzania
When: Saturday, December 3, 2011 to
Saturday, December 10, 2011

Kuber Glacier Exploration and first Indian ascent of Sky Peak, June 2001

April 19, 2011, 11:11 pm

≫ Next: Prologue to Africa: Part I

≪ Previous: 2011 Expeditions and Trips

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This expedition was probably the genesis of Adventure Mania. I found my report in Himalayan Journal's 2002 Expedition and Notes section. I am putting a copy of that report below:

EXPLORATION IN KUBER GLACIER

ANINDYA MUKHERJEE

OUR AIM WAS TO EXPLORE the less known plateau of Kuber glacier and evaluate possibilities of new high altitude trek routes in the area.

Kuber glacier is located to the east of Badrinath in the district of Joshimath (Uttaranchal). The coordinates of Kuber are 300 45′ N, and 790 31′ E. It is 3 km in length and 700 m wide. The height of its snout is 4008 m. The most dominant peak of Kuber is Nar Parvat (5855 m). The glacier is located at 790 33′ 30″ E and 330 44′ 50″ N, to the west of Nar Parvat. Kuber glacier stretches from east to west.

There is another interesting peak on the southwest ridge originating from Nar Parvat. This is the ‘Sky Peak’, climbed and christened by the famous ‘Ocean to Sky’ expedition of Sir Edmund Hillary in 1978.

History of Kuber

In 1978, after the ‘Jet Boat’ part of the famous ‘Ocean to Sky’ expedition was over, the team trekked their way on to Hemkund and Valley of Flowers, before attempting Narayan Parvat. They could not climb Narayan and instead attempted its companion Nar Parvat. Here another misfortune awaited them. Sir Hillary fell seriously ill with pulmonary oedema at Camp 1 (5360 m) Two helicopters of Indian Air Force flew on an evacuation mission the same day. But their attempts to land were foiled by bad weather. Luckily the weather relented and Ed was flown to Mana and then further to Bareilly. Three members, Peter Hillary, Murray Jones and Graeme Dingle finally climbed an unnamed peak (5850 m), which they symbolically named as ‘Sky’. They sprinkled Ganga water on the top of the peak.

We were the second team in Kuber and the first Indian team in the area. We were certainly thrilled to follow such famous footsteps.

The Journey

I started from Kolkata on 27 May, 2001, reaching Joshimath on 29 May. Balbir Burphel of Joshimath joined me there and we moved to Malari by jeep. We trekked to Gamsali village on the same day. On 31st Balbir and me entered the Amrit Ganga valley.

The Trek

On 31 May 2001 Balbir and myself moved west from Gamsali. After worshipping at the temple of Dani, we crossed the Amrit Ganga river and thereafter followed it’s true right bank. We intended to cross the famous Bhuindhar Kanta but did not follow the traditional track that follows through Thaur Udiyar and Eri Udiyar. We trekked beyond the vicinity of Thaur Udiyar and camped on the right lateral moraine SSE of the legendary Kakbhushandi Peak (5830 m). Next morning we had a grand view of Nilgiri Parvat (6474 m) to our west.

On 1 June, we moved south and entered the sanctum of Rataban (6166 m). Rataban north face was standing with all its grandeur. In this small valley, two glaciers join hands (one from Bhuindhar Khal and one from Rataban) and move north to join the main flow of Bankund glacier. That day we camped below the khal. It was a memorable night with high velocity wind funneling down from the pass. On 2 June, we moved west. Ours was going to be the earliest

crossing of the Khal of the year as most of the crossing generally takes place in July to October. We negotiated a steep ice slope and after a long traverse reached the top of the pass. Its altitude is 5090 m. We had a good view of Ghori Parvat (6708 m) and Rataban from the pass to the Bhuinder Valley side. The descent to Tipra glacier side was through treacherous snow slops involving long traverses and steep descent. Finally, we camped at Dhara Kharak. This name is given by ‘Shepherds’ as numerous waterfalls surround the camping ground. The enormous icefall coming from the south face of Rataban was the backdrop of our campsite. 3 June, was a cloudy day. We started early and traversed the Tipra glacier to SW and soon climbed up its right lateral moraine and entered the Valley of Flowers. We passed Chakulthela, Tipra Kharak and walked on the bed of Bhuindhar Ganga. Then after crossing Bamni Dhaur we reached Ghangharia and started down the valley to reach the bus head of Govind Ghat by late afternoon. By 06.00 p.m. we reached Joshimath. Thus the first part of our trek was over.

Quest for Kuber

On 4 June, Balbir and me reached Badrinath and Joined the Kuber glacier exploration team. It was a day of reunion and rest. We arranged for 3 LAPs took care of the last minute shopping, and went for a recce. We talked to bakriwalas and villagers of Mana. According to the map, the Kuber glacier is located directly east of Badrinath. We agreed on a direct approach from Badri.

Trek to Base Camp

On 6 June, we moved direct east from Badri and moved up the grassy spur. The going was tough due to a steep gradient. There was no track or trail. In most of the places we literally had to climb using the grass bunches as hand and foot holds. After 4 hours of strenuous but rewarding scrambling we reached our Transit Camp. Our TC was a beautiful, green, level patch of ground among vertical surroundings. It rained during the night but the next day dawned fine. We woke up under the ever watchful eyes of Nilkanth (6596 m). Urvashi and Narayan peaks looked like it’s two arms. After breakfast, we climbed eastwards. Very soon, we faced steep icy remains of winter snow on the upper part of the slope. We cut steps and fixed rope on the ice slope for the safe passage of the team. Then we moved a little to the north and climbed up a dangerously loose boulder zone. Then again took to the east. Dense fog was interrupting our progress intermittently. After 5 hours of toil we saw the icefall of Kuber glacier. A suitable site was found for making our base camp. The icefall was to our north. To our east was a 600 ice slope with four intermittent rock bands. To reach the upper plateau of Kuber we have to negotiate this very wall. To our SE was a rocky peak of 4319 m.

Beyond Base Camp

On 8 June, myself, Abbas and Balbir put our climbing boots on and started climbing the wall. Ice axes became a burden on the rock step. Very soon we were rock climbing with crampons on. We were relieved to see last of the rock bands. Then after steep climbing on hard ice, we reached a decent slope that led to the plateau. Clouds were closing in on us and we cut a shelf on the slope and pitched a tent. A mild drizzle of powder snow continued for the rest of the day.

On 9 June, the entire Kuber plateau was blanketed by heavy mist. It was impossible to find our route on the plateau. Still we pressed on, with the aid of a compass towards east. We climbed three humps but the curtain of mist showed no sign of improvement. Over the top of the third hump we waited for a long and frustrating hour but then gave up hope and went back to the camp. Around 3.30 p.m. blue sky appeared in the east. Balbir and myself went for a recce. This time we moved a little to the SE. After climbing two humps a fine, shapely, snow peak appeared on the far end of Kuber plateau. At the very first sight we recognized the peak. It was the Sky Peak, 5853 m. To its NE was Nar Parvat (5855 m). From Nar another ridge emanated towards west. On this ridge was a distinct col to climb Nar Parvat one would have to cross this col from Kuber plateau and attempt from its northern side. This might have required two more camps from our present point. So we turned our focus on Sky Peak. Between Sky and Nar Parvat lies a col that theoretically leads to the Khunt khal area. But the col was wearing a jacket of crevasses and a dangerous icefall guarded its descent. So we cancelled any probability of that route. However happy with our recce, Balbir and I returned to camp.

Ascent of Sky Peak

On June 10, Abbas, Balbir and myself started climbing the humps and within an hour reached the roof of Kuber plateau. We roped up and gained the NE ridge of Sky Peak. As soon as we reached the ridge a great view was waiting for us. We could now see Nanda Devi, Changabang, Kalanka, Dunagiri, Bethartoli Himal, Trisul and Ghori Parbat stretching from east to SE. We then turned south and started climbing the ridge. We climbed a 600 wall and gained the north shoulder of Sky. The summit ridge was sharp and beautiful. Carefully we negotiated the last steps and reached the summit of Sky at 08:00 a.m. We were happy and proud to be the first Indians on top of Sky. We did ‘puja’ on the summit and took photographs. Our eastern side was dominated by the Nanda Devi group and the same peaks were seen from the lower ridge. To our south west was the Vishnugarh dhar of the Khir ganga valley. We retraced our steps back to camp. We packed our tent and moved back to BC. The descent to BC was really treacherous. We climbed down cautiously and reached BC safely around noon.

The next day, we cleared BC and went down towards Badrinath. It was an endless descent. We made it to Badrinath by 2 p.m.

Team: Anindya Mukherjee (leader), S. K. Abbasuddin, Akash Parial, Diganta Roy Chowdhury, Subrata Bhattacharya and Balbir Burphel (HAS).

Summary: Exploration in Kuber glacier and ascent of Sky Peak, June 2001.

Prologue to Africa: Part I

May 4, 2012, 5:15 am

≫ Next: Prologue to Africa: Part II

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Escape to Gangotri: the long six days

In June 2010 I was supposed to be dead. I was deep inside the upper reaches of the Gangotri glacier when that incident took place. It so happens that I had two cysts in my right lung. They grew inside me without my knowledge of course, over the years, to the size and shape of tennis balls. They are called hydatid cysts, kind of a tapeworm (echynococcus granulosus) infection one can get either from dogs or from sheep. I may have got them from eating ( or should I say ‘tasting’ because I only had a tiny bit out of sheer curiosity) raw sheep liver in the base camp of Mount Kamet back in 2005. It amazes me to this day that with these growing cysts in my lung I had participated in many high altitude mountaineering expeditions over 6000m to major summits and even raced on Mt Elbrus (20 trips between 2005 June and 2010 June to be precise)! Should this incident have happened in one of those extreme conditions I sure stood less chance of survival!

Gangotri glacier near its head. the shoulder of Janhukot visible on the left. Chaukhamba  massif forming the head of the valley

However in June 2010, something finally happened as I was leading a small group (Heidi Genesis and Bryan Hylenski) on an expedition that aimed to make the first ascent of Janhukot (6805m). We were only two people in the advanced base camp that night. Thendup Sherpa, my trusted climbing partner and lead climbing Sherpa of all Adventure Mania expeditions and I had chosen the spot for ABC near the junction of Swachand and Gangotri glaciers.  After setting up ABC, we had gone further up that afternoon to have a look at Maiandi Bamak and the mountain we were about to tackle, Janhukot. All seemed fine until late at night, while I was deep asleep, one of the cysts ruptured.

What followed was not nice! First I was coughing nonstop and soon was breathless. Chest pain was accompanied with high fever and dirrahoea making me extremely weak. My first thought was I had HAPE and I must get down to lower altitude. I started taking medications that I had with me to give some symptomatic relief, but that did not seem to work. But the worst part was that I could not drink or eat at all. Nothing would go down.

The junction of Kirti and Gangotri glaciers, before the snow storm

It took me 24 hours to gather courage and energy to start my long journey back to Gangotri. While Thendup, Lakpa and Indra stayed with Bryan and Heidi; Kiran accompanied me down. As soon as I had started walking I realized it is much worse than I had presumed. I could walk only 10-12 steps at a time and had to sit down for 10-15 minutes before I could stand up and walk the next 10 steps. The mountains around me, which looked divine and grand 24 hours ago; had turned into a cruel and unforgiving fortress. It felt as if a death sentence has been announced and the convict was trying to escape. 

It took me and Kiran nearly 12 hours just to reach Sundarban, our BC site, and I was completely dehydrated and drained. This would have taken me 4 hours max in normal physical state. Even though I had lost some altitude, may be around 500m-600m, I was not feeling any better. I thought maybe this is not enough; we should try and get to Bhujbas tomorrow, at least. But over the next 12 hours my condition worsened and by early morning next day I realized I do not have the strength left to walk the seemingly endless moraines of Gangotri glacier. I asked Kiran to go up to ABC once again and get Lakpa down. It seemed at that moment that two helping hands are better than one. Kiran sprung into action, he made a quick dash to ABC and by mid day was down in BC with Lakpa. We had ropes but I had ruled out the option of carrying me down. It seemed reckless at that time. I decided to walk with my two hands across their shoulders. My brave, strong friends, they did not let me down. But the weather was not on our side. It decided to play naughty and while we were just about to traverse the Kirti Glacier junction we were hit by a snow storm forcing us to get back to Sundarban. The snow storm lasted for next 48 hours, covering the moraines with soft new snow and making it even more challenging terrain for I was sinking by the hour.

before the incident in base camp

48 hours after the incident in base camp

In those 48 hours of snow storm it was very important that we did not lose hope although I could sense that my brave comrades Kiran and Lakpa were beginning to doubt if I will be able make it alive! The snow had to stop and so I gathered all the energy I could master at that state and started a very determined push to Tapovan. We knew if we could reach Tapovan we will find people who could help. The fresh coat of snow were triggering frequent avalanches from Shivling and the moraine wall one climbs to reach Kharapattar near Tapovan was hurling rocks down ceaselessly. So we had to detour. Had to move towards the medial moraine of Gangotri glacier and find a safer route to Tapovan. 

Finally after 12 hours of toil we reached the cave shelter of Tara Mataji of Tapovan. At that very moment I knew I was going to live. It was the 5^th day since one of cysts had ruptured. My symptoms were still not improving and I was beginning to think that my case may not be a simple case of HAPE after all.

Mataji of Tapovan. Photo: Heidi Genesis

On the 6^thday of the ordeal when we started our walk we were still hoping to find some ponies at Bhujbas and not having to walk the last 14 kilometres to Gangotri. But after reaching Bhujbas we learnt that while we were stranded in Sundarban during the snow storm a torrential rain washed the lower valley. The mule track that connects Bhujbas with Gangotri was cut off in a few places due to mudslides. So walking we did. But it felt much easier than finding our way through powder coated unstable moraine. By afternoon, on the 6^th day of our ordeal, we reached Gangotri. After resting a night at Gangotri and buying food supply for both Mataji and our expedition team Kiran and Lakpa went back up all the way to the ABC to reunite with the team. For me the journey was downhill. Within 24 hours I made nonstop travel to Delhi, merely changing vehicles and flew to Kolkata; still hoping that I will be able to come back in Gangotri in time to meet the returning expedition team. Somehow I felt consulting doctors in Kolkata was a better idea than getting admitted in the Uttarkashi Government hospital.

At a Guest House in Gangotri after the escape. Left to right: lakpa, Anindya, Kiran

A few days after the surgery at the CMRI hospital Photo: Pabitra  Chatterjee

What followed was a quick phase of diagnosis and then a lung surgery at the Calcutta Medical Research Institute under Senior Surgeon Dr. Saibal Gupta and Dr. Rupak Bhattacharya. I was bed ridden for 3 months. That was a setback for Adventure Mania and its mountaineering service works. We are yet to recover from that. For a small outfit such as Adventure Mania, if its owner-guide is down, and if he is the only one able to attract new work for himself and his crew; the picture does not look particularly sunny!

But friends across the globe reached out and stood by me and my family and I am going to remember that for the rest of my life.

For me a new chapter was about to begin. I had many questions in my mind. Will I be able to climb again? Will my lungs permit me to go high altitude once more? Will I be able to lead and guide expeditions? If not, I would have to face a new challenge, find a new way to earn bread for my family!

Prologue to Africa: Part II

May 6, 2012, 8:13 am

≫ Next: Prologue to Africa: Part III

≪ Previous: Prologue to Africa: Part I

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Back on feet

22 days (18th July to 8th August 2010) in a hospital bed felt endless! My friends (including my school mates) and family members visited me almost every day. While it was nice to see that I was not alone it was hard to keep the sense of humor breathing in harmony. Future looked uncertain and I was getting restless deep inside.  My wife ‘Sangita’ and son ‘Ananda’ were my motivation in that nadir of my days and I focused myself in getting better.

Cartoon drawn by artist Sri Debasis Deb, who came to visit me quite a few times in the hospital

As soon as I was out of that hospital bed my hopes for getting back to the mountains began to intensify. I was able to walk longer and everyday felt a bit stronger and therefore a bit more confident. Another month passed and the drainage tube attached to my chest was finally removed around the beginning of September. It was around then I realized that if I can be fit by end September 2010, I will have work in October and November.

Prospect of work brought a lot of focus back in me indeed. I am thankful to Arindam Da( Arindam Mukherjee) and Alan Tees for having faith in me. Arindam da was planning to do a trek to Kuari Pass with his friends and family in October and Alan (then President of Mountaineering Ireland) was keen to organize an exploratory mountaineering expedition in the Indian Himalaya right after the Kuari Pass trek would be over. Deadline was set. Paper works and planning for the two back to back trips were on. I would have to be ready for starting the Kuari Pass programme by 10^th October, 2010 and I had just about a month left to check and reaffirm to myself that I am capable of walking a mountain trail, breathe the thin air and not fall sick again. It was time to visit Darjeeling and Tumling.

Darjeeling

Tumling is around 9000ft above msl on the Singalila Ridge and seemed to me the perfect spot to put myself to test. While I could drive up there from Darjeeling via Manebhanjan in 3-4 hours and stay in the comfortable tea-house of ‘Nila Didi’ (Sikhar Lodge); I would be able to take long day walks every day, uphill and downhill, on a trail and off it sometimes. If I got sick by any chance it was easy to find a transport and head down to a hospital in Darjeeling. The plan looked good enough and by mid September we took the Darjeeling Mail. My father did not want me to go on my own and so along came he and Baidyajit 

(a good friend).

early morning walks in Darjeeling

Darjeeling is one of my all time favourite places on earth but that visit felt real special. We decided to spend a few days in Darjeeling first before heading for Tumling. Walking those familiar and dear roads of Darjeeling infused fresh enthusiasm in me and soon we were ready for Tumling.

approaching Tumling from Meghma during one of my many afternoon training walks

While in Tumling I took it very seriously and began to push myself each day with longer walks around Tonglu and Joubari. My whole body ached, muscles were tired easily. I could not afford to allow my body more rest days to recuperate. Soon, after a couple of days of determined hikes and a healthy dose of wholesome food prepared by Nila Didi’s kitchen, I was beginning to feel confident. I was rediscovering myself all over again and my body was regaining its rhythm, balance and strength. Thus at Tumling in a late September afternoon of 2010 I realized I belong to the mountains. They are part of my existence, an extension of my soul.

Kitchen, Sikhar Lodge, Tumling

The mountains of Singalila had helped me get back on feet. I knew I was ready for leading groups. First the Kuari Pass trek and then an exploratory mountaineering venture to an unknown valley in Spiti.

End of Part II                                                                                                   6^thMay, 2012

Prologue to Africa: Part III

May 10, 2012, 3:30 am

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Rebirth in the hills: From the heartland of Garhwal to Unknown Spiti

Kuari Pass trek and the Singekang Expedition

Dunagiri and Nandadevi from Gorson top

The Kuari pass is a wonderful trail offering a grand panoramic view of many of the famous Himalayan summits like Chaukhamba 7138m, Nilkantha 6596m, Dunagiri 7066m, Kamet 7756m, Mana 7272m, Trishul 7120m and Nandaghunti 6309m and of course Nanda Devi (7816m) and yet just the trek one would like to take if he/she is taking their first steps in this “devabhumi”-the land of Gods, Garhwal.

Ronti, Trisul and Nandaghunti

By mid October, 2010, after overcoming massive landslides en route our team was in Auli, the starting point of our trek. The sight of Dunagiri and Nanda Devi was simply out of this world. For me it was like a rebirth in the hills. With every bout of violent cough I had, I knew I have come so far and there was no stopping. The mountains at night and at dawn were silent witness of my struggle (it was around those hours the nasty coughing bouts would visit me and stay with me for some time) for recovery and I felt blessed to be there beneath their shadow. I was also in good company. Arindamda ( Arindam Mukherjee), supportive as he always was, stood by my side from the hospital days to the meadows of Gorson. His friends (Bill Goers, Francois Lecerf, Madame Lecerf) and family (Sipra Mukherjee and Ruku) never let me feel like an outsider, a mere guide. It was an extended family out on a Himalayan hike. I will always have fond memories of Kuari Pass.

team posing on top of Kuari Pass

This Kuari Pass trek gave me another opportunity to check my lung performance and over all recovery once again. It was like a second level check after my days in Tumling, on the Singalila Ridge the month before and acted as a stepping stone prior to the dry and cold days of Singekang Expedition ahead. 

Singekang gorge

I knew what lay ahead of me in terms of Spiti and the job of exploring a completely unknown terrain. It certainly was not going to be easy for the following factors:

1-      Nothing was known about the valley we wanted to penetrate and hoped to climb the 6000m mountain at its head, Singekang. No one had gone there before us.

2-      The time of our expedition being end of October and through November, we knew this would be particularly cold

3-      We will have real hard time in finding porters

All the above fears came to be true. But in the end we overcame all odds because we were lucky to have an extra ordinary team. Alan’s (Alan Tees, then president of Mountaineering Ireland) mature leadership style and Jeremy’s (Dr Jeremy Windsor) experience had a synergistic effect on the rest of us (George Carleton, Sandra Kennedy, Andrew Tees, Martin Boner, Thendup Sherpa, and I).

high camp Singekang Expedition

No porters could be persuaded to work with us in spite of the intervention of my good friend Tsering Lara. I cannot blame them for that. Porters expect and need a trail. We did not have any. For many days my Sherpa crew and all the members had to force a route and ferry loads through the cold, unstable gorge of the Singekang stream and we eventually managed to set up a BC almost half way up the valley.

I had no plans to climb to the summit but managed to reach the high camp, while rest of the team put up a bold attempt on Singekang. During the assault, Jeremy got his toes frostbitten ( a legacy of Everest for him) and together with Andrew, I got down quickly to the road head Poh and then to Kaza, so that Jeremy can get to warmer and lower places soon. The rest of the team did a first ascent of a 5500m peak. Not a bad show after all!

Singekang, the ridge attempted is in the centre

One can read a brief report of Singekang Expedition 2010 in the link provided here:

http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/asia/india/himachal-pradesh/2010-singekang-snaght-kang-by-j-windsor/

My coughs did not fade away though. The coughing bouts seemed to last longer and grew violent sometimes with traces of blood coming out. Jeremy assured me that coughing in this high altitude was the best exercise I could give to my recovering lungs and that felt real good therapy to me!

my special room in the sakya abode hotel at kaza

2010 was coming to an end and what a year it had been! I had been close to death, a very painful one and before the year was over I was fortunate to be back on the mountains and the life I live for. I was already looking forward to new adventures. Work was not looking up in the first few months of 2011 and that gave me an opportunity to venture and plan out on some of my own projects - explorations around two of Indian Himalaya’s most admired mountain ranges, Nanda Devi and Kangchenjunga. Singekang remains unclimbed to this day. I have not had a chance to go back since. May be some day soon I will.

End of Part III                                                 

10^thMay, 2012